Terrific sparkling wine is produced across the globe, especially right here in California . But it wouldn’t be a stretch to say that we are in the midst of a golden era for Champagne. A movement that began a few decades ago, when droves of small grape farmers stopped selling their precious bounty to the big brands and started making the wine themselves, has reached a crescendo, with more ultra-high-quality, site-specific and responsibly farmed wine being produced now than ever before.
This deviates somewhat from the traditional Champagne model of blending grapes, vintages and vineyards to produce a consistent “house” style that may be reliable but lacks the intrigue and artistry of this newer movement. Importer Paul Wasserman says, “It is a very energetic time for Champagne, which is exploding with new talent. .
.. The new generation is free to explore all manners of winemaking, including adding little or no sulfur, using ambient yeast for fermentation, oxidative aging and more.
” Sommelier Courtney Kaplan has made an impressive commitment to, and investment in, this new wave of boutique Champagne at her Arts District bistro Camélia. “It feels like the conversation has shifted when we talk about Champagne with guests in the restaurant. It has been more about Champagne as a wine with bubbles, and how it will pair with their food, just like we would talk about any other type of wine.
As opposed to it being for the first toast before moving into some ‘real’ wine..
