It’s no coincidence is named Music City. Think of the town, and it immediately conjures visions of the Grand Ole Opry, the Bluebird Cafe, the honky tonk bars on Broadway, and more recently, the wave of new venues opened by country stars scattered across town. Nashville is also currently enjoying a growth spurt thanks to the ever-expanding popularity of country music, with 180 music venues of all kinds (and counting) and a record $10.
6 billion of visitor spending in 2023, the same year Condé Nast Traveler it among the top 10 big cities to visit in the US. It’s become the number one destination to live out your -themed bachelorette party dreams. But there’s another side to this city: precious cultural gems steeped in history and blooming within a growing art, culinary, and design scene.
This is the Nashville that I wanted to see on a recent weekend trip to the city, where my plan was to visit the current exhibition and experience the finest food, art, and design that I could possibly absorb in 48 hours—all while attempting to avoid the crowds. Back in the late 19th century, the Arts District in downtown Nashville was known as the Gentlemen’s Quarter: a hotbed of lurid activity with saloons, gambling, and prostitution. Today, however, it is home to boutique hotels, fine dining, and private clubs.
In the heart of this area, around the corner from Printer’s Alley, the center of the town’s printing industry around 1915, is the Bobby Hotel on 4th Avenue. Designed by the David Mexico Group, the Bobby opened in 2018 and showcases elements of southern culture and contemporary design. The massive hubcap chandelier in the lobby is crafted from vintage car parts, and the rooftop lounge has a 1956 Scenicruiser parked poolside that hosts guests, events, and VIPs during their Backyard Music Sessions; meanwhile, a 1966 Caravel Airstream serves as an extra bar.
The hotel’s interiors are also punctuated by contemporary art exhibitions curated by Joshua Edward Bennett at Tinney Contemporary. (The current exhibition—titled “Clear Mirror,” in reference to The Velvet Underground song “I’ll Be Your Mirror”—includes works that feature alternative portraiture, focusing on the shifting nature of subjects in the digital age.) Further south on 4th Avenue, you’ll find the luxury hotel The Joseph which opened August 2020.
The hotel is a living work of art with subtle nods to Southern design paired with Italian craftsmanship. A hand-tooled leather front desk made by the Italian shoe company Lucchese, Nudie Cohn (the famous rodeo tailor who made bespoke creations for Gram Parsons, Dolly Parton, and the who’s who of country music) inspired embroidery on linens, ostrich leather covered walls, Italian marble flooring, and bespoke experiences with suites outfitted with record players and a selection of music hand-chosen to suit the guests tastes. The founder Joel Pizzuti believes in living with exceptional art in all spaces throughout the hotel, from the Yolan restaurant to the Four Walls bar.
Voted as one of Food & Wine’s 10 best restaurants in the US, Yolan is named after Pizzuti’s grandmother and led by James Beard Award-winning chef Tony Mantuano. The food is a celebration of Italy’s culinary delights and spotlights seasonal, local ingredients; standouts include gnocchi with black truffle, halibut with mussels and clams, and a finely curated wine selection. In-house pastry chef Noelle Marchetti’s modern techniques and artful presentations are a delight for all of the senses: I will have dreams about her soaked coconut sponge cake with candied macadamia nut, lemon verbena espuma, and citrus for years to come.
If you are a fan of the show or simply fancy an elevated dining experience, you can book La Tavola in La Cucina, a seat for up to four guests to dine within the kitchen to witness the team’s artistic expertise as your meal is prepared. On another night, I headed to the Southern Turf Club. Built in 1895 for bookmaker Marcus Cartwright the building was once home to a bordello, a saloon, and a gambling parlor.
The original architecture was restored and the members-only club owned by Bill Miller honors its original 1800s aesthetic with museum-quality antiques. As the elevator doors opened, I audibly gasped. I was immediately transported to another era seeing an ornately carved wooden bench with red velvet upholstery made for the English poet John Milton, lush oil paintings in gilded frames, four century-old fireplaces, and a hand-carved wall from the 1700s acquired from a Scottish pub.
Original leather-bound books from the 1800s line the walls, while antique red and green glass pickle jars with candles illuminate the rooms. Every detail is carefully curated with beautiful bronze chandeliers, elaborate dark floral wallpaper, and giant antique blue glass hashish, cocaine, and cannabis apothecary jars. The interiors perfectly complement the rare spirits selection, including the oldest known bottle of Rip Van Winkle from 1916—one of the club’s most prized possessions.
If you want to get more of a feel for the debaucherous history of the area you can head to Skull's Rainbow Room, a 1948 speakeasy-style lounge known for craft cocktails and fine dining. Located in the basement of the Southern Turf building, Skull’s is home to a rowdy late-night burlesque show backed by a live jazz band. The space is rumored to be haunted by the ghost of the original owner, David “Skull” Schulman, who was murdered in the entrance.
(Guests have even reported seeing apparitions of Skull roaming the street with his beloved poodle Sweetie, who witnessed his death.) Elvis, Johnny Cash, Patsy Cline, Bob Dylan, and Etta James have all performed here and frequently visited the speakeasy, so you can feel the history the moment you enter. Shifting gears, the following day I was moved to tears visiting the Frist Art Museum for their current exhibition, “Rendez-Vous: Lee Alexander McQueen & Ann Ray.
” The installation is a love letter to one of the most visionary designers of our time. Once labeled fashion’s “enfant terrible” he was often misunderstood throughout his life—yet his close friend, French photographer Ann Ray, documented every moment of his life over thirteen years and forty-three collections, capturing both his creative process and intimate moments. Sixty pieces from his collections mingle with 65 photographs hand-selected by Ray from her archives.
Each garment showcases McQueen’s masterful way of creating, many with dark undertones inspired by his personal history and Scottish heritage, exploring themes of death, power, and exploitation. The exhibition runs through August 25th, culminating with a talk from model and Nashville resident Karen Elson on the 24th, recounting moments from her friendship and working relationship with the designer. This show is not to be missed by any fan of fashion.
Before leaving Nashville, I had to visit a few of the city’s well-known vintage and second-hand stores for some shopping. I picked up a gorgeous green lace jumpsuit at Buffalo Exchange on Elliston Place, then headed to Anaconda Vintage in East Nashville to purchase a 1970s yellow chiffon dress that would make Loretta Lynn envious. I left the city exhausted but creatively inspired by the way it seamlessly mixes traditional Southern culture, with contemporary art, design, and culinary excellence—honoring the roots of Music City while building an exciting present day.
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